The famous fair of Bhadarwah, ‘Patte Ru Kodd’ commonly known as Mela Patt is a three-day festival celebrated in honour of the presiding deity, Shri Vasuki Nag Maharaj.
In 1580 A.D. Raja Nagpal of Bhadarwah visited Delhi to participate in an assembly of Pahari kings convened by Emperor Akbar. After witnessing a miracle of Nagraj Vasuki, the emperor sent gifts for Nagraj through Raja Nagpal, as a mark of respect and submission. These gifts included royal drums (Naubat), diamond-studded gold ornaments, gold urns (Kalash), silver utensils for ritual worship and gold-embroidered silk clothes.
Upon the return of Raja Nagpal to Bhadarwah, these valuable items were displayed to the public. The silk cloths were bundled together to form a temple-shaped pillar, topped with golden urns. A devotee carried this structure on his head, swirling it around to the beat of ‘noubat-nagada’ (drums) in celebration. This structure made of silk clothes was called ‘Patt’, as silk cloth is known as ‘Patt’ in Sanskrit and the event was called ‘Patte Ru Kodd’ or ‘Mela Patt.’ The tradition continues today with the same gaiety and devotion.
This festival begins on the evening of Bhadrapad Shukla Tritiya with the worship of a five-piece (Panchmukhi) golden Kalash known as ‘Jhaari’ at the Ganesh Math temple. The Jhaari is carried by a member of the Rajpurohit (royal priests) family on his head through the main lanes of town in the form of a procession and established in the sanctum of Shri Vasuki Nag temple. The following morning, the Rajpurohit carries the Jhaari with the same reverence to the dalaan (hall) of the residence of Rajgurus (royal mentors) in Khakhal. It is kept here for darshan (viewing) and worship.
Since olden times, the fabrication of Patt and management of this festival has been entrusted to ten prominent families of Bhadarwah called ‘Dashnaan’. The members of these families remain in austerity and chastity called ‘Kaar’ until the festival’s completion. The Patt is assembled in the ‘dalaan’ of ‘Rajgurus’ by the members of the Dashnan families at night. They segregate the cloth pieces based on their length, colour, design, and weight and tie them by various kinds of knots in the shape of a temple over a wooden body called Ghorhi. The knots at the upper part of this column are artistically covered by a piece of gold embroidered cloth (zari cloth). The golden urns are fitted in it with the biggest one at the pinnacle and four smaller ones on the sides. The creation of Patt, sculpted in the form of a temple vimana is accomplished in the wee hours of Rishi Panchami.
At the break of dawn, a designated chela carries the Patt on his head and leads a procession to the Durga Mata temple in Khakhal, Shri Vasuki Nag temple, and the Ganesh Math temple, where. The Patt is ceremonially swirled outside all three temples.
Afterwards, it is brought back to the ‘dalaan’ of the Rajguru’s residence and placed there for darshan and worship by devotees, who visit in large numbers throughout the day.
Around 4 P.M. the divine Patt is brought to Khakhal in a grand procession led by traditional musicians (bijentries) playing drums like dhons, dhol and nagaras, along with instruments such as kahal, narsingha, nagfani, turri, flute, bhanav and jhalli. Volunteers carrying flags, umbrellas, and canopies made of embroidered silk in various hues follow them.
The massive assembly of devotees chants jaikaras in honour of Shri Vasuki Nag and shower the Patt with flowers. Women devotees crowd the roofs and balconies of houses lining the street, raining flower petals over the Patt as it passes by.
In the Khakhal ground, the Patt is ceremoniously swirled in a circular motion, which causes the colourful cloths to spread out, allowing spectators to see all its intricate components. It is a divine spectacle beyond words.
The Dashnaans remain standing around the Patt throughout and support it as and when the chela carrying the Patt gets tired and rests for a few moments by sitting down. All the time, the whole area resonates with Jaikaras hailing Maharaj Vasuki Nag and Manimahesh Mahadev.
The Patt is returned to the dalaan of the Rajgurus for an overnight stay while people participate in the traditional Dhokku dance (Kodd) in the Khakhal ground.
This ritual is repeated with the same devotional fervour for three days—Panchami, Shashti, and Saptami. During these days, the Khakhal ground takes on a festive atmosphere. Various stalls are set up, offering confectionery items, snacks, fruits, toys, and local cuisines. Popular culinary delights include khatte alu (potatoes cooked with tamarind), gur-patisa (hardened jaggary) and kaale chole (fried black grams).
On the night of Saptami tithi, the Dashnans untie the knots, untack the stitches and disassemble the Patt after offering prayers. The cloth pieces are stacked properly and kept in safe custody. With this, the mela comes to a close.
Author: Dharam Kant Dogra
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